Travel: Scotland’s Isle Of Skye Will Leave You Breathless

Charming Portree makes a good base while on Isle of Skye. Photo by Debbie Stone

Fairy Pools. Photo by Debbie Stone

By DEBBIE STONE
Santa Fe
For the Los Alamos Daily Post

Picture a dramatic landscape of jagged mountains, rocky coastlines and verdant green plains, often shrouded in mist. Add ancient castles, Viking and Celtic history and a dose of fairy folklore, and you have the Isle of Skye, a magical, mystical wonderland.

This stunning island should be on every traveler’s list when visiting Scotland. Located on the west coast of the country, it’s the largest of the major islands of the Inner Hebrides. Years ago, you’d have to take a ferry to reach Skye, but thanks to the Skye Bridge, it’s now easily accessible from the mainland.

There are many places to explore during your time on the island, with several memorable highlights. They include castles, unique geographic formations, waterfalls, charming villages, distilleries and more.

Dunvegan is “one of the greatest Hebridean castles and the only Highland fortress to have been continuously occupied by the same family for 800 years.” It is said this castle captures the authentic spirit of the Isle of Skye, as its mix of multiple building styles reflect the preferences of clan chiefs who constructed them between the 1200s-1850s.

Defensive battlements run the length of the roof line and an imposing land bridge leads to a columned portico entrance. Look for the Fairy Flag of Dunvegan mounted on one of the walls.

It’s faded and tattered now, but story has it that mythical creatures gave the flag as a gift to the Clan MacLeod, and that it possessed powerful magic which could come in handy during battles against rival clans.

Inside, the main hall is equally impressive, as are the richly decorated State Rooms. If you’re curious as to whether anyone lives at the castle, you’ll learn that current clan chief, Hugh Magnus MacLeod, stays here on occasion, though he is based in London.

Make sure you stroll around the castle’s formal gardens, as they offer an Edenesque oasis with a variety of flora and peaceful walking paths.

Wondrous geographic formations abound on Skye. The Quiraing Mountain Range, for example, is composed of dramatic cliffs and rock formations, which are jaw-dropping, rain or shine. When I was at the viewpoint, the wind was howling and it took all I had to keep from being blownaway. But the dramatic panorama was awe-inducing.

Kilt Rock is another well-known site. This 295-foot high wall of hexagonal columns, made of basalt rock, are stacked on top of each other. They resemble the pleats of a tartan kilt, thus, its name. The columns were created by volcanic activity over millions of years and offer a glimpse into the geological history of the region.

At the base of Kilt Rock is Mealt Falls. It cascades down the rock face and falls 180 feet into the sea. This area is also noted for its collection of dinosaur bones, which were found in the Jurassic rocks on the coastline.

The Old Man of Storr on the Trotternish Ridge is another famed landmark. This 180-foot pinnacle of basalt rock was formed around 60 million years ago by a ginormous landslip. The rocks dominate the landscape and can be seen for miles as you travel north. You can hike up to the massive pinnacle if you have the time for the moderately challenging 3.3-mile loop.

There are a few legends surrounding the Old Man of Storr. In a commonly recited tale, Skye was once a land of Giants, who roamed the island, yet were constantly at odds with one another.

During one of these battles, a very large giant was killed on the Trotternish Peninsula. The land swallowed his body over time, except for one part, which was left poking above ground. Some say it was the giant’s thumb. Others believe it was a more intimate part of his body!

Another folk legend features mischievous fairies and a local couple, who climbed to the top of these hills every day. However, as they grew older, the wife had an increasingly harder time with the hike. When she couldn’t climb any longer, her husband carried her on his back. Soon, though, the man wasn’t strong enough to carry his wife, but he still didn’t want to leave her behind.

The fairies, who had been watching these events occur, went to pay the man a visit. They told the man they would grant his request and all he had to do was carry his wife up the hill one more time. Once the couple reached the top, however, the cunning and mischievous fairies turned the couple into a huge stone pillar. As they had promised, the husband would no longer go anywhere without his wife, as they were now forever joined together.

Skye’s famous Fairy Pools is a must-visit destination. Picture a series of crystal-clear blue pools flowing down a hillside into a river. To complete this enchanting scene, the pools, which are nestled in a valley, are surrounded by mountains and forest. They are a wonder that entices some folks to brave their frigid waters. If that’s not your style, don’t worry, as these natural pools are also a photographer’s dream.

As you might expect, the Fairy Pools are steeped in legend and folklore. They are said to be home to the Blue Men of the Mich, a group of mythical creatures bent on luring sailors to their deaths. They’re also said to be a door into the fairy realm, with the belief that the fairies use the pools to go between the human world and their own.

Continue the fairy theme with a stop at the Fairy Glen, an unusual geological formation, which goes back 100,000 years. It was created by landslides that occurred after a glacier. Over time, erosion and various elements sculpted the sandstone, forming craggy hills, randomly scattered boulders and even a natural basalt feature called Castle Ewen.

A steep path leads to the castle, which looks like a crumbling medieval fortress. There’s a scramble to the top, but your efforts are rewarded with magnificent views of the surrounds.

Once you descend, you’ll see a flat area where there is a large spiral cut into the grass and stones placed around it. Contrary to popular belief, this is not the work of the fairies, but rather visitors.

The hazelnut trees in the forest around the Glen are known to be a hiding place for the fairies that supposedly inhabit this place. When I was there, all I saw were sheep contentedly munching on the greenery.

Many people visiting Skye often base themselves in Portree, a charming town known for its different colored houses. It’s also the capital of the island and was created as a fishing village back in the 19th century. Its name comes from the Gaelic for Port on the Slope. Here you’ll find all the services you might need – hotels and inns, restaurants and cafes, banks, shops, a tourist information center, grocery stores, etc.

During your time on Skye (or wherever else you may visit in Scotland), try some traditional Scottish foods, like black or white pudding and haggis. These three iconic dishes have been enjoyed for centuries and each has its unique qualities. White pudding is a type of sausage comprised of oatmeal, suet, onions and spices, and known for having a mild flavor. It’s often prepared sliced and fried.

Black pudding, on the other hand, is actually blood pudding, made from the same ingredients as white pudding, with the addition of pork blood. The blood gives it a distinctive dark color and earthy flavor. It can be pan-fried or grilled.

Haggis is the most famous of the three. It’s a savory pudding that combines minced sheep’s heart, liver and lungs with onion, oatmeal, suet and spices. Traditionally, it was encased in a sheep’s stomach, however, today, you’ll find it in an artificial casing. It has a meaty flavor with a crumbly texture and is often served boiled or steamed, accompanied by neeps (turnips) and tatties (mashed potatoes).

You’ll most likely want to sample Scottish whisky, too, as Scotland is home to over 150 malt and grain distilleries, making it the greatest concentration of whisky production in the world.

And although you can stop in at any pub and order a nip, a dram or finger, head to Talisker Distillery for the full tasting experience. This is the original and oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye and boasts phenomenal views of the Cuillin Mountains.

As you travel around Skye, you’ll notice signs are in both English and Gaelic. Though the latter language almost died out, it’s now making a comeback and dual language signs are the norm on the mainland as well.

You’ll also see countless sheep and cows dotting the landscape. It’s often said that there are more sheep than people on the island. When I visited in spring, it was lamb season and it was fun to see these wee creatures stumbling about the fields, never straying far from their mamas.

There are several varieties of cows on the island. I am partial to the cute Beltway Galloway breed. They’re commonly known as Oreo cows for the distinctive white belt that runs from their shoulders to their hips and contrasts with their black coats.

I’m also fond of the Highland cattle, a breed that originated in the Scottish Highlands back in the 6th century. These large cows, which can weigh over a thousand pounds, sport long horns and a shaggy coat that’s typically gingery in color. The Scots call them Hairy Coos and they are very popular with tourists. To tell the females from the males, look at their horns. A female’s horns point upwards while a male’s are positioned straight ahead.

This is Scotland and the weather can be unpredictable, or predictable if you expect rain and grey skies. However, during my time on Skye, Mother Nature was in a benevolent mood, doling out some sunshine and pleasant temps. But I was also glad to get a glimpse of her misty side, which heightened the enchanting ambiance of this special place.

Dunvegan Castle. Photo by Debbie Stone

Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. Photo by Debbie Stone

The Fairy Glen. Photo by Debbie Stone

Oreo cows! Photo by Debbie Stone

I spy a Hairy Coo! Photo by Debbie Stone

The landscape will soothe your soul. Photo by Debbie Stone

Sample some Scotch whisky at Talisker Distillery. Photo by Debbie Stone

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