Natillas. Photo by Liddie Martinez

By LIDDIE MARTINEZ
Española Valley

Altocumulus clouds, known in Spanish as el cielo emborregao, are cloud puffs that resemble sheep’s wool. Old Hispanic lore would read these clouds as a bad omen but, in my life, a life lived mostly in the kitchen, this type of cloud formation reminds me of natillas and that is a good sign.

Natillas in my life were the sure sign of a family celebration. Made most often in the Spring when fresh milk and eggs are abundant, to me they are a bowl of springtime memories of lambs in fields not quite green and awake from winter’s rest. Our traditional New Mexican natillas derived from the original Spanish Natillas thought to be developed by nuns in the La Mancha region of Spain.

During the late middle ages egg whites were used to remove tannin particles from wine which nuns and monks were charged with making, and an abundance of egg yolks may well account for the decadent custards developed in those times, natillas included. And while Natilla (without the “s”) can be found in many Latin American countries, from Columbia to Mexico to Cuba, the natilla recipes are much more closely related to flan in their thickness and flavoring. But the original Spanish Natillas are light with meringue, creamy in texture and subtle in flavor.

Do not fret about the raw egg whites; the meringue cooks in the hot pudding when you fold it in. Fold gently aiming for the lamb’s wool texture to keep it light and airy rather than stirring and mixing the meringue into oblivion. 

5  eggs, separated, at room temperature

½ cup flour

1  cups sugar, plus two tablespoons for meringue

1  teaspoon vanilla extract

4  cups milk, divided

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

cinnamon for garnish

With an electric mixer combine egg yolks, flour, sugar, salt, vanilla and ½ cup of the mil and beat well until smooth.

In a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat, scald remaining milk- do not boil.

Meanwhile, beat egg whites to frothy, add cream of tartar, then beat to soft peaks and add remaining sugar 1 teaspoon at a time until stiff peaks form and set aside.

When milk has scalded, slowly pour one ladle of hot milk into the egg yolk mixture whisking constantly to temper. Then slowly add the contents of the yolk mixture into the hot milk and whisk vigorously over medium heat until if just comes to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and fold egg whites into thick pudding incorporating well then remove from heat. Serve warm with a sprinkle of cinnamon.

Serves 8-10.