Lilacs in bloom. Photo by Liddie Martinez

Video on how to prepare Lilac Tea. Video by Liddie Martinez

By LIDDIE MARTINEZ
Española Valley

Lilacs have been the friends and guides of northern New Mexican farmers for centuries. They are found in every garden nook and cranny and on nearly every old farm property in Northern New Mexico. Sometimes they are just old saplings blooming along acequias on abandoned homesteads but they are participants in an ancient technique of farming known as phenology.

Phenology is the study of cyclical and seasonal natural phenomena, especially in relation to climate, plant and animal life. In other words, it is the practice of documenting natures’ cycles overtime and sharing natural signals with others for timing things like planting. When do certain birds appear? When do certain flowers bloom? When do insects emerge and what do these natural signs trigger us to do?

Lilacs are a very reliable tool in Phenology. When lilacs first begin to leaf out, it is time to plant cool season veggies like cabbage, peas, onion sets, lettuce and spinach. When lilacs are at full bloom, it is time to plant the three sisters, corn, beans and squash. I learned these signs from my grandma and subsequently began keeping a garden journal nearly 25 years ago. Every year I document the migrating birds, the first arrival of the black-chinned hummingbird, the first rain, when the tulips and daffodils bloom, when the cottonwoods’ cotton flies, and, of course, when my lilac bushes bud, leaf and bloom. I also keep track of what plants do best in which areas of the property and track the rotation of crops, lest I forget.

Because of this practice, my lilacs are near and dear to my heart. During the early part of the pandemic, a friend of mine sent a request to share with her a recipe for lilac lemonade. Now I had never thought to make lilac lemonade but I knew that the flower was edible and had used it on occasion as a garnish. I’d had lavender lemonade before so; I knew the basic formula but I worried that it would taste of perfume. It doesn’t. What a delight to find a new favorite drink so refreshing, aromatic, delicious and beautiful that it has become my go to drink for Mother’s Day Brunch.

I have seen an abundance of lilacs in Los Alamos, White Rock and in the Valley and I urge you to try this special drink as soon as your lilacs are in full bloom. They are only in bloom a very short time so take advantage as soon as you can! Now, I should tell you that our farm is organic so there is no threat of residual pesticides. Be sure to use untreated blooms that have been thoroughly rinsed if you make this special drink.

Simple Syrup

1 ½ cup granulated sugar

2 cups of water

In a small sauce pan combine sugar and water. Bring to a rolling boil then reduce heat, simmer for 5 minutes and remove from flame. Set aside to cool.

Lilac Lemonade

1 ½ cup lemon juice

3 cups simple syrup

2 cups ice cubes

4 cups cold water

6-8 lilac blooms rinsed clean

In a glass pitcher combine lemon juice, simple syrup, ice, and water. Immerse freshly cut lilacs that have been rinsed clean in a strainer. Cover with plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate overnight. The lilac scent is beautiful and fully experienced before the first drink. The flavor is still lemon dominant but with the floral undertone is bold and pleasing. Fill tall glasses with ice before pouring over and garnish with lilac petals.

Editor’s note: Liddie Martinez is the author of the popular award winning Chile Line Cookbook: Historic Recipes of Northern New Mexico, which is available online at www.pajaritopress.com.