Video on how to prepare blue corn atole. Video by Liddie Martinez

By LIDDIE MARTINEZ
Española Valley

Blue corn was already widely used by Native Americans before the Spanish arrived in New Mexico in the 1500s and was traded by the Hopi all along the Rio Grande. It is clear that they recognized its valuable attributes early on and may hint at why it is revered and still used for ceremonial purposes in the pueblos. Besides its beautiful color, blue corn is much easier to digest because it has less starch and more protein than its yellow counterpart. It also contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties and is useful in combating diabetes and cardiovascular disease. It is no wonder that our Native American neighbors have been growing this incredible healing food for centuries.

These days, blue corn is used in a variety of dishes from blue corn chips purchased at the grocery store to blue corn shrimp tamales at high-end restaurants but I remember the awe at seeing blue corn Piki Bread the first time served for feast day at my dear friend Governor Walter Dasheno’s house in Santa Clara. The bread was served in small sheets that were so thin, they were almost transparent. Made from a blue corn mush that is smeared on hot rocks, I’m still hoping that some pueblo friend will take pity on me and invite me over to help make it someday so that I can learn the techniques.

When I was a kid, blue corn atole was made when I was feeling under the weather and could not eat. A small cup would be served bedside by my grandmother. The warm drink filled my stomach, provided nourishment and helped me sleep while I healed. The memories of my grandmother singing at my bedside encouraging me to take another drink still flood my head when I make this special recipe. She was an accomplished healer, and I don’t know if it was her singing or the atole that would heal me- perhaps it was the combination.

You need very few ingredients to make this and most you will have on hand, but good, finely milled blue corn meal that has the consistency of flour is essential. It can be found in most markets now but try to find the one that is labeled atole. You can find blue corn meal readily, but it is often coarsely ground and better for making tortillas or pancakes. I always use scalded milk because it helps keep the drink hot unlike adding cold milk out of the refrigerator and warm milk also helps soothe your nerves. You might find the small amount of baking soda an odd ingredient, but it helps to enhance the blue color and lightens the texture of the drink although omitting it would be fine.

Atole is an ancient drink that has been actively consumed for thousands of years in our extended communities. It is delicious, nutritious and a staple food for our region. Don’t wait until you are sick to try it!

Ingredients

4 cups water

2 cups milk

¾ cup atole (finely ground blue corn meal)

¼ tsp. baking soda

A pinch of salt

Sugar to taste (optional)

Heat water in a heavy saucepan over medium high heat. In a small pan heat milk over medium flame to scald. Add corn meal to water and whisk to remove any lumps then switch to a rubber spatula to stir the bottom edge as corn meal will settle there. Add soda and stir well. When the atole mixture comes to a boil, add salt and hot milk. Stir well until it all comes to a boil again and then remove from heat and serve with a little sweetener if desired.

Editor’s note: Liddie Martinez is the author of the popular award winning Chile Line Cookbook: Historic Recipes of Northern New Mexico, which is available online at www.pajaritopress.com.

Blue corn atole. Photo by Liddie Martinez

Aztec blue corn. Photo by Liddie Martinez