Natillas. Photo by Liddie Martinez
By LIDDIE MARTINEZ
Española
Altocumulus clouds, known in Spanish as el cielo emborregao, are cloud puffs that resemble sheep’s wool. Old Hispanic lore would read these clouds as a bad omen but, in my life, a life lived mostly in the kitchen, this type of cloud formation reminds me of natillas and that is always a good sign.
Natillas in my life were the sure sign of a family celebration. Made most often in the Spring when fresh milk and eggs are abundant, to me they are a bowl of springtime memories of lambs in fields not quite green and awake from winter’s rest. Our traditional New Mexican natillas derived from the original Spanish Natillas thought to be developed by nuns in the La Mancha region of Spain.
During the late Middle Ages egg whites were used to remove tannin particles from wine, which nuns and monks were charged with making, and an abundance of egg yolks may well account for the decadent custards developed in those times, natillas included. While Natilla (without the “s”) can be found in many Latin American countries, from Columbia to Mexico to Cuba, the natilla recipes are much more closely related to flan in their thickness and flavoring. But the original Spanish Natillas are light with meringue, creamy in texture and subtle in flavor.
Do not fret about the raw egg whites; the meringue cooks in the hot pudding when you fold it in. Fold gently aiming for the lamb’s wool texture to keep it light and airy rather than stirring and mixing the meringue into oblivion.
I like to make this during the holidays, a homage to my mother-in-law, Adelinda (Linda) Martinez who absolutely loved the dish. At the end of her life, it was frequently requested and now I can’t make it without thinking of her.
Ingredients
5 eggs, separated
1 ⅓ cup sugar, plus two tablespoons for meringue
½ cup flour
4½ cups milk, divided
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
Cinnamon
With an electric mixer or whisk combine egg yolks, flour, 1 ⅓ cup sugar, salt, vanilla and ½ cup of the milk. Beat well until smooth.
In a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat scald remaining milk – do not boil.
Meanwhile, beat egg whites to frothy, add cream of tartar then beat to soft peaks and add remaining sugar 1 teaspoon at a time until stiff peaks form, set aside.
When milk is scalded, pour one ladle of hot milk into the egg yolk mixture to temper then add contents of yolk mixture into the hot milk and whisk vigorously over medium heat until it just comes to a boil. Reduce heat to a low simmer and fold meringue into the thick pudding, coating the meringue well. Sprinkle of cinnamon and serve warm.
Editor’s note: Liddie Martinez is the author of the popular, award-winning Chile Line Cookbook: Historic Recipes of Northern New Mexico, which is available online at https://thechileline505.square.site/.
Ingredients for preparing Natillas. Photo by Liddie Martinez
Natillas underway! Photo by Liddie Martinez