Travel: Soul-Stirring Landscape Of Patagonia

Submitted by Carol A. Clark
on May 3, 2024
- 8:23 am

Gaucho with sheep. Photo by Debbie Stone

Welcome to Torres del Paine National Park. Photo by Debbie Stone

By DEBBIE STONE
Santa Fe
For The Los Alamos Daily Post

I had promised myself I wouldn’t get up on another horse – ever – as past horseback riding experiences have shown me that horses and I don’t get along. Typically, I would be told I would be riding a gentle mare only to have that “gentle” mare persistently nip at another horse, constantly munch on the grassy smorgasbord, balk at crossing a shallow stream, then turn around and head the other way, and my favorite, unexpectedly take off at a speedy trot, leaving the rest of the group (and almost me, too!) in the dust.

So, you might question what I was doing atop another “gentle” mare, this time in Patagonia, of all places. After saying “no” several times to a horseback riding excursion, I was finally persuaded by the head guide at Estancia Cerro Guido to give it a go. He assured me the pace would be slow and the horse would be obedient (yes, I’ve heard this before!). Most importantly, the tour would offer another way for me to experience the sublime landscape, as well as understand how horses and Patagonia are entwined culturally and historically. The group consisted of just my husband and I, the head guide and one of the Estancia’s gauchos or “cowboys.”

Initially, I was very nervous as I got on my horse, Lola, and I’m sure she could sense that right off the bat. But after a while when I realized she was content to follow the other horses without bothering them, responded well to my occasional use of the reins and never stopped to eat, I was finally able to relax and truly appreciate my wondrous surroundings.

During the ride, we stopped at a gaucho shelter and took part in the tradition of drinking mate with our gaucho, while learning about the gaucho culture in Patagonia. These “cowboys” are symbolic characters of the Chilean countryside. They round up sheep and cattle, train sheep dogs, shear sheep, mend fences and help preserve the natural grasslands, play an important role in livestock protection and tend to the horses. They are incredibly skillful riders who appear to be horse whisperers with an almost telepathic connection to the animals.

Estancia Cerro Guido borders the eastern side of Torres del Paine National Park in southern Chilean Patagonia. The ranch covers an area of roughly 250,000 acres and is the largest estancia in the area.

The park’s name refers to three tall rock towers that comprise the most recognizable site in the area. These towers are very distinct 8,000-foot granite peaks that stand as sentinels over the Paine Massif, a spur of the Andes. Torres is the Spanish word for towers and Paine is the word for blue.

Torres del Paine National Park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and spans over half a million acres. The park is a world-class attraction, often described as one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners on Earth. It boasts an exceptional landscape that draws avid hikers, nature lovers and photographers from around the world.

As a guest of Estancia Cerro Guido, you can choose either the all-inclusive package or all-inclusive private package. Both offer full board, along with an open bar, entrance fees to the National Park, a number of excursions (shared or private depending on the package) and shared or private transfers from Puerto Natales (less than two hours) or Punta Arenas (closer to five hours).

The ranch has twelve rooms in its guesthouse and has been designed in an authentic English style with all the creature comforts you’d expect from a luxury property. The décor is understated elegance with classic furnishings, fabulous featherbeds, organic amenities and plenty of space, yet cozy and comfy.

Within the guesthouse are two, charming parlors, also in the English style. Guests have full use of these rooms to lounge in, peruse the historical photos, enjoy coffee or tea and a bottomless cookie jar!

The main house is where the restaurant, bar and common seating areas are and where the reception desk is located. A wall of windows faces the famed Torres del Paine. Dining everyday with such a picturesque view is so special and when the sun sets, it’s magical. The sky and peaks are awash with painterly hues that change by the minute. And if you happen to be up at sunrise, the colors are even more dramatic.

As for the food, know you won’t go hungry at the Estancia. It’s fresh and seasonal with much of the produce coming from the ranch’s onsite garden. Breakfast is buffet-style with fresh baked goods, fruit, cheeses, meats, yogurt, eggs to order, etc. At lunch and dinner, guests choose from a multi-course menu of salads, soups, entrees like hake, chicken, shrimp, risotto and pasta, steak, beef stew and more. Occasionally, there is a traditional lamb roast BBQ. Dessert is a mind-boggling array of sumptuous sweets. Service is warm and attentive, as it is throughout the property.

Tours and excursions are a mainstay of the Estancia. The ranch prides itself on its extensive menu of activities for guests, from short hikes to daylong treks. The most classic hike is the Base de las Torres or Base of the Towers, which involves a 13-mile roundtrip and takes roughly eight to ten hours to complete. If such a trek is not for you, know there are plenty of trails suited for a range of levels and abilities. You don’t have to be an uber hiker to enjoy and appreciate this privileged destination.

The Estancia also offers overland park tours, conservation safaris, cultural and history tours, horseback riding trips, fly fishing excursions and more. All activities are led by knowledgeable guides who are well-versed in the landscape, history and wildlife of Patagonia, and who are clearly passionate about this enchanting place.

As you explore the area on these excursions, you’ll get a sense of the vastness of Torres del Paine National Park and its surrounds. It’s an awe-inspiring, diverse topography with a never-ending sky. Whether you hike, horseback ride or take another tour, you’ll be treated to exquisite scenes of snow-capped mountains, forests, lakes in all shades of blue, rushing rivers, waterfalls, glaciers, the immense pampa and, of course, wildlife in their natural habitat.

Torres del Paine National Park is home to the guanaco, puma, fox, rhea, condor, flamingo, armadillo and other creatures. The guanaco, which is related to the camel like the llama and alpaca, is prolific here. It can be found grazing the grasslands, typically in small groups of females with their young and one dominant male.

These graceful animals can run upwards of 35 miles per hour, faster than any other Patagonian animal except the puma. If they sense danger, one of the guanacos will emit a piercing warning cry, signaling the herd, which will swiftly flee. Guanaco can also jump and are known to leap over fences that are nearly seven feet tall. I saw this happen on several occasions and it’s an impressive feat!

The puma is the guanaco’s major predator in Patagonia. But though the puma is faster – capable of running fifty miles an hour – it is a sprinter and cannot maintain that speed for very long. That explains why this animal typically stalks its prey and then springs on it, instead of chasing it down.

Though I saw countless guanacos during my visit, unfortunately, I never saw a puma. Despite plenty of opportunities to try and spot one while on wildlife safaris and park tours or hiking ventures, these creatures were elusive and remained out of sight. Our guides would tell of us of having seen the animals, often in small family groups, particularly at dawn or dusk. But of course, they reminded us that pumas, like all wildlife, have their own agenda and it’s only by chance that people see them.

Besides hordes of guanaco, I saw armadillo, grey fox, flamingo, rhea and condor during my visit. The rhea is identified as Darwin’s or lesser rhea and looks like a small ostrich. This bird is flightless, but known to be an adept runner. It’s also unique in that once the female lays its eggs, she departs and the male protects the eggs and raises the chicks. The paternal instinct is in full force!

It’s hard not to miss the majestic Andean condor. As the world’s largest flying bird, it weighs over thirty pounds, is four-feet in length and boasts an eleven-foot wingspan. Due to its weight, the condor needs the winds and thermals to lift its huge body into the air. When you see one, it’s usually soaring over the peaks and canyons of the landscape, keeping its sharp eyes peeled for carrion in scavenger fashion.

To learn more about the Estancia itself, all guests are invited to join an historical and cultural tour of the property. You’ll hear how the place was founded over a century ago and who the key players were in its establishment and growth. It’s a journey through time involving the roots of the cattle and sheep industry in Patagonia, along with mountain climbing lore.

The tour also takes guests to different areas on the property, including the stables, orchard, garden, greenhouses and shearing shed. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get a chance to see sheep being sheared and learn how the wool is processed and spun into products for sale. Additionally, you may be able to observe the sheep dogs herding the sheep out of the barn and see how the gauchos deftly work with the animals. These clever dogs are their faithful companions.

The tour not only provides an in-depth view of the Estancia, but also give you an understanding of the cultural heritage of Patagonia, the way of life of the people and the rich traditions that define its essence.

www.estanciacerroguido.com/en/